How to Dry Curly Hair Without Frizz: Air Dry vs. Diffusing

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When I first started embracing my natural curls, drying my hair was the step I dreaded most.

No matter what I tried, I’d end up with a frizzy mess that looked nothing like the defined curls I had when my hair was soaking wet. And definitely nothing like the pictures of gals I saw with gorgeous curls. Sound familiar?

Let’s be honest – drying curly hair can feel like a science experiment gone wrong! One day, your curls look amazing; the next day (using the same products and techniques), you’re reaching for that scrunchie to put your hair in a ponytail.

After years of trial and error (and so many bad hair days), I’ve finally cracked the code on how to dry my curls without turning them into a frizzy disaster.

The game-changer? Understanding the difference between air drying and diffusing – and knowing when and how to use each method.

Today, I’m sharing everything I’ve learned about both techniques so you can find what works best for YOUR unique curls!

Why Frizz Happens (And Why We Hate It!)

Before diving into drying methods, let’s talk about why frizz happens in the first place.

I used to think frizz was my destiny until I learned this: frizz occurs when your hair cuticles open up and moisture from the air enters your hair shaft. Basically, when your hair is thirsty, it drinks up moisture from the atmosphere, causing your strands to swell and create that dreaded frizz halo.

Your hair’s porosity plays a huge role in how it dries and how prone it is to frizz. High porosity hair (like mine!) absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it fast, making it more vulnerable to frizz during the drying process.

Common mistakes we’re all making (but can easily fix!):

• Rough-drying with a regular towel (those terry cloth towels are curl murderers!)
• Touching our curls constantly while they dry
• Using the wrong products for our specific curl type
• Blasting our hair with high heat
• Not applying products to soaking wet hair

Air Drying: Embracing Your Natural Curls

Air drying is exactly what it sounds like – letting your hair dry naturally without heat. But there’s a method to it that can make all the difference between frizzy and fabulous!

Why I (sometimes) love air drying (and why your curls might too!)

I do this at night when I want to give my hair a break from all the heat and air dry.

Air drying can be a total game-changer for eliminating frizz and even defining curls. I get more consistent, natural-looking curls without heat disrupting my curl pattern. Plus, it’s obviously gentler on my hair in the long run.

No heat damage = healthier curls over time!

My step-by-step method that actually works

1. After washing, I apply my leave-in conditioner to SOAKING wet hair (this is crucial for me!)
2. I apply my styling products like I featured in this video (you can also watch it below)
3. Next comes “plopping” with a microfiber towel for about 20 minutes to remove more moisture without disrupting my curl pattern. I’ve found this helps with air drying, but I don’t “plop” anymore when diffusing.
4. After plopping, I arrange my curls where I want them to fall, lifting the roots for volume. Sometimes, I’ll add a couple of claw clips to the crown of my head for some root-lifting action.
5. Then I DON’T TOUCH MY HAIR. This is the hardest part, but it’s so important!
6. Once my hair is about dry and I can feel a great cast on it, I flip my head upside down and gently scrunch to break any cast from my styling products.

Products that are GAME CHANGERS for air drying

For air drying, I’ve found that lighter-weight products work best. Heavy creams can weigh down curls and extend drying time. My holy grail combination for air drying is:

• A lightweight leave-in conditioner – I use this one and love it for the smell and how lightweight it is
• A curl-enhancing cream (just a small amount!) – This one is still my favorite
• A medium-hold gel applied with prayer hands – Still using this one

Here’s how I cut my air-dry time in half without sacrificing definition

Let’s face it – air drying can take FOREVER. To speed things up without creating frizz:

• I make sure to plop with a super-absorbent microfiber towel
• I use slightly less product than I would for diffusing
• I flip my part every 30 minutes or so to increase airflow to my roots

The not-so-great parts about air drying (keeping it real!)

Air drying isn’t all curl perfection. The biggest downsides for me are:

• It takes SO long, which is why I only do this at night
• I don’t get as much volume at the roots
• In humid weather, my curls can still frizz up even with product. (I live in Austin, TX, so humidity is a part of my daily life.)
• It’s not practical when I need to be somewhere quickly

Diffusing: For When You Need Those Curls NOW

A diffuser is that bowl-shaped attachment for your hair dryer with prongs or fingers sticking out. It distributes the airflow evenly, minimizing disruption to your curl pattern while speeding up drying time.

I’ve been using this one for almost two years, and it is, hands down, the best diffuser I have ever owned. I loved it so much that I did a giveaway for one! Maybe it’s time to do another one….

Different techniques I’ve tried (pixie, hover, etc.)

There are several diffusing techniques out there, and I’ve experimented with most of them:

Hover diffusing involves holding the diffuser a few inches away from your hair and moving it around without touching your curls. This is great for creating volume and setting those curls! This is actually how I start my diffusing routine.

Pixie diffusing is when you place sections of hair into the diffuser bowl, move it up to your scalp, then turn on the dryer. Once that section is partially dry, you turn off the dryer before removing it. This creates amazing definition but takes more time. I tried this, and well, I’m just not patient enough for this technique!

Root diffusing focuses on just lifting and drying the roots for volume while letting the rest air dry. This is my go-to after hover diffusing.

Here’s my fool-proof diffusing routine that won’t create a frizz halo

1. I apply my styling products to soaking wet hair, just like with air drying.
2. I use my microfiber towel to remove excess product and water, and it helps with curl definition.
3. I start with hover diffusing around my whole head to begin the drying process and set the curls.
4. Once my hair is about 30% dry, I switch to root diffusing, working in sections.
5. I focus on the roots last, using the diffuser prongs to lift and create volume.
6. When my hair is about 90% dry, I turn off the heat and use the low setting to set my curls.
7. I don’t scrunch out the crunch until after I’ve done my makeup, brushed my teeth, etc. I let it sit while I finish getting ready and then, I scrunch out the crunch.

Phew! I’m exhausted. How about you? This is one of the reasons why I only wash my hair once a week. It’s a looooog process but the results are incredible.

Products that make diffusing work SO much better

When diffusing, I reach for products with more hold since I know the heat will combat some of that cast:

• A curl cream with medium hold (not too heavy, not too light, but juuuust right.)
• A strong gel that creates a good cast
• Heat protectant – another reason I like this leave-in conditioner is it helps protect my hair from heat

Mistakes I made with diffusing (so you don’t have to!)

Learn from my diffusing disasters:

• Using only high heat (apparently, I liked frying my hair!)
• Moving the diffuser too quickly between sections
• Diffusing hair that’s too wet (using the microfiber towel to remove a little of the water and product first makes a huge difference)
• Touching my curls while they’re still damp (no tuchy!)
• Not using enough product to combat the disruption from the diffuser

Which Method Is YOUR Hair’s BFF?

Finding what works for YOUR unique curls takes experimentation. Here’s how different factors might influence your choice:

Hair type considerations

• Tighter curl patterns (3B-4C) often benefit from diffusing for more defined curls and volume
• Looser curls and waves (2A-3A) might prefer air drying to avoid disrupting their more delicate pattern
• Fine hair typically responds well to air drying to avoid heat damage
• Thick, dense hair might need diffusing simply due to how long air drying would take

I have type 2b hair, and while I can do air drying and diffusing, diffusing definitely gives my hair more volume and overall, I like the results better. It’s all about experimenting to determine what works best for your hair and lifestyle.

How your lifestyle affects your choice

Morning showerer? Diffusing might be your only option unless you want to show up to work with wet hair.

Night showerer? Air drying might work, but be careful about sleeping on damp hair (hello, weird flat spots!).

Always running late? Consider a hybrid method – diffuse roots and key sections, then air dry the rest.

Let’s Wrap This Up!

The perfect drying method for curly hair without frizz depends on your unique curl pattern, lifestyle, and hair goals. Air drying offers gentle, natural results but takes time, while diffusing gives you speed and volume but requires more technique to prevent frizz.

Remember, finding your perfect drying method is a journey, not a destination. What works for my curls might not work for yours, and what works for you in summer might not work in winter!

The most important thing is to be patient with your curls and treat them gently, regardless of which drying method you choose. Minimal manipulation, the right products, and consistent technique will lead to beautiful, frizz-free curls.

Let’s Chat!

What’s your go-to drying method? Are you Team Air Dry, Team Diffuse, or a hybrid like me? Drop a comment below!

Do you have any special techniques for drying your curls that I didn’t mention? I’m always looking to learn new tricks!